Originally we had been scheduled to travel aboard the TT Apolon. A few weeks ago we received notice that the Apolon which was built in 2016 had been rescheduled to a different route and that we would travel on the TT Adris which was just launched in April of 2018. A couple of days ago we saw the Apolon sail past us in the opposite direction. This morning we woke up to find the Apolon tied up next to us. Unfortunately before we could storm aboard for a look, she untied and sailed away.
Morning view of Pucisca
This morning was again somewhat relaxed. We took an long walk down the water front (Okay, it was about 200 steps) to a school where youngsters are tested and then trained in the art of stone carving. Although the majority of students are from Croatia, students apply from around the world to attend this school. The school is a full program school and the children have to take the full curriculum and keep their grades up. Upon graduating they are almost instantly guaranteed work somewhere on the planet. The unique thing about the stone carving is that the technique and the tools used are all old-world from the Roman times. The memorial at Vimy Ridge was made by artisans from Brac using limestone quarried just across the bay from the school.
Sculpture done by a student!
Leaving the school, Marion and I had some time to further explore the neighbourhood. As with all of these ancient coastal communities, streets are narrow and there are a never ending supply of stairs. We were very amused to find cars parked along one particular narrow street when we realised that the only way for the cars to enter or leave was via a set of stairs, just like we have seen in James Bond movies.
Zastava 750 was seen all over the Balkans, can trace its roots all the way back to 1904 (the year BEFORE Alberta became a province). The car could almost fit in you back pocket at about 3.3 meters long, 1.4 meters wide and about the same height. Sporting a 24hp motor with a rocket blasting speed of 0 – 100 kmph in 52 seconds. Top speed 110 kmph (downhill and tail wind). Stayed in business for 114 years and then became a victim of the crash of 2008.
Back on the Adris, another massive ‘lunch’ followed by a leisurely trip to the metropolis of Split in which there are about 200,000 residents. Tourist industry is very active here also. Hundreds of sail boats, yachts, catamarans, fishing boats crowd the marina. Split boasts a vibrant building industry. The TT Adris and it’s sister the TT Apolon were both built here in Split. (Read more here)
The belly of the palace. Note the double header above the doorway and the arch above that. Every doorway in the palace was built that way. This area is actually an earthquake area. So what you are looking at is earthquake proofing. The double headers of course reinforce the doorway which are normally very weak when it comes to its ability to carry a load. The arches actually deflect the weight of the palace around the doorway to the more solid walls which can carry more weight. The design is incredible when you think that the palace was built in 305 AD.
As they seem to have done everywhere in this area, the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans have all laid claim to both the city and the general area. We toured the fortified Palace of Diocletian for a couple of hours. The palace has quite the interesting history. It was originally built for the Roman emperor in 305 AD. At some point, none of the upper echelon really wanted to be ‘banished’ to such a remote area so the palace was abandoned for about 300 years. The lower levels of the castle had an issue with water that was continually dealt with while it was inhabited. Once abandoned, it filled with water and was unusable. The locals, not able to live in these areas, decided it was a great place for sewage and garbage. Several centuries of dumping garbage and sewerage resulted in compaction to the point the stuff was hard as rock. Eventually someone decided to start excavating. They discovered that this rock hard ‘stuff’ actually reinforced the base of the place and that it was in remarkably great shape.
A partially excavated chamber
The discovery and excavation happened during the late 60’s and one of the first chambers to be excavated was a rather lager hall. Well that part of the project was completed in the early 70’s. So electricity was run into this hall and they promptly setup a disco. Some years later, UNESCO came upon the scene, declared it a world heritage site and stripped out the disco, except for the electricity. Here it is 2018 and they are still working on recovering rooms that have been preserved with the help of sewage, garbage, UNESCO and private sponsors.
Water front area of Split. The steeple is part of the church in the middle of the palace.
We returned to the Adris to find the Apolon tired up to the Adris. So without delay, we charged on to the Apolon and treated ourselves to a tour, which of course, left it’s passengers wondering what on earth was going on. We decided we liked the newer refinements of the Adris.
Molly eyes the pivo (beer)
Having a couple of free hours gave us the opportunity to seek out one more scoop of the incredible ice cream that we indulged in all through out the Balkans. All ice cream is served in a soft chilled form and not rock hard as they do at home. One can fully enjoy the taste experience without threat of brain freeze. (Sorry Larry, but of all the tantalizing flavours, nary once did we see bubble-gum).
Captain Tomislav takes Molly for a dance
Back on board, relax for a couple of hours and then time for the Captain’s dinner. A pair of local musicians treated us to some wonderful music from around the world. Lots of humour and laughter. As the pictures will testify to, Molly made no bones about her ability to steal the show.
Party on
I think its all gone.
The Dalmatian Coast Epilogue will be posted in a few days.