Another in the series of somewhat lower paced days. As, has become the norm, way too much food at breakfast which triggered the urge to have a post breakfast snooze, which we both successfully resisted. We bade farewell to the picturesque island and port of Vis as we wondered what our next stop could possibly bring after the grandeur of the last island. The weather was virtually perfect for a day on the water. Everywhere we looked the sea was dotted with sail boats. White obelisks, their white mainsail set. That combined with the trail behind the sailboats against the deep blue sea and the incredibly clear blue sky painted an almost surrealistic vista. An image that deserved the attention of greats like Michelangelo or Van Gough.
A great opportunity to let the gentle rolling soothe away some of the rigors of the trip’s earlier intensities as we plied the waters at a gentle 8 knots (15 kmph). The captain took advantage of the opportunity afforded by the fair conditions and skillfully nestled the TT Adris us into a small well sheltered cove of the island of Paklinski otoci. The anchor was lowered and we again had the opportunity to swim in the Adriatic. Al little more caution was required here as there was a fair current. Life rings were tossed into the water to show the current direction and a life boat was at the ready. Again. The cover was alive with sail boats whose crew were all doing the same thing as we were. Surrounded by the thick greenery on the limestone cliffs of the island is where we had our lunch, after all, its been a few hours since we last ate anything.
Much to the chagrin of most of us, the time came to raise the anchor and continue on to the next port, Hvar. We finally cued in that there is a pattern. The practice throughout Croatia is that the island and the prime community of the island share the same name. So we are going to the town of Hvar on the island of Hvar.
Another in the series of remarkable places throughout Croatia. Hvar also traces its routes all the way back to about 3,500 BC. Its more recent history starts again in about 384 BC when the Greeks decided to move into the area. The island is about 68km long and is unique in that it has a disproportionately large fertile plain. The plain combined with a number of fresh water springs and a mild climate is a combination that would be hard to equal anywhere on the planet. The island of Hvar is actually rated as one of the 10 most beautiful islands in the world. It did not take long to see why Hvar has been awarded that international recognition. (Read more here)
Upon disembarking, we were guided on a walking tour of the port area by a very articulate young local lady who has just finished university and majored in English and Portuguese. Hvar is one of the oldest tourist areas on the planet with over 95% of the locals catering to the tourist industry in some form or another. Even the children await the arrival of the yachts so they can engage the passengers in an impromptu game of soccer.
The world’s first tourist bureau was started in Hvar 150 years ago this past spring. Although there were theaters throughout Europe, all of them were for the aristocrats and wealthy only (kind of like the Edmonton Stadium sky boxes). The elders of Hvar recognized this and built the first fully public theater in Europe. The theater is still in use today, although it is currently closed for renovations and repairs. Of course, there is no shortage of side streets that are so narrow that I can touch the buildings on both sides at the same time. Several of these buildings have been restored which left us in a state of awe as to how they were able to bring all the materials through the narrow and angular labyrinth to the restoration sites in the very heart.
In the evening we were honoured with a champagne reception and a presentation of traditional Croatian music. The ladies wore traditional clothing and the music was acapella in its purest form. What added to the overall atmosphere of the presentation was the venue which was located in secluded sanctuary area under a single massive tree that we did not recognize at the back of the Franciscan Monastery.
Walking just a few hundred meters along the sea wall from the monastery we came to a set of stairs (another set, that is) which at the top had a restaurant. Everywhere we have gone in Croatia, it was obvious that they have great love of pizza. We decided that it was time for us to try one. Well we were far from disappointed to say the least. Thin crust always gets points from us. the rust was firm and not soggy, more points. The aroma was tantalizing, more points. Then the first bite. The point scale went over the top. There was an extremely thin layer of sauce (the places at home way overload the pizzas with sauce). There was something very different about the cheese. Turned out was an all natural “something”, and not the artificially cheese used by many places. Anyhow, it is almost worth it to journey the Hvar just to try the pizza.
As part of the 150 year celebration of the Tourist Bureau an outdoor concert had been scheduled on the waterfront for the day before we arrived. However, that dark and stormy night that Marion wrote about yesterday, caused it to rain so hard in Hvar that entire event was cancelled. The plus for us was that it was rescheduled to tonight. We were so fortunate to be able to sit on the seawall under the cloudless starlit night and listen to some of the local rock musicians perform their best renditions of everything from Peggy Lee to the Rolling Stones, all with a slight accent.
What did the English version of this sign say?
“Mutilation Follows Urination” ?
I will be happy to explain it in a language we are both fluent in. 😃
Sign for campground!!
Worth the chuckle.